Why Issey Miyake Was Steve Jobs’s Favorite Designer

Little wonder, really, that Issey Miyake was Steve Jobs’s favorite designer.

The man behind Mr. Jobs’s personal uniform of black mock turtlenecks, who died on Aug. 5 at age 84, was a pioneer in all sorts of ways — the first foreign designer to show at Paris Fashion Week (in April 1974), among the first designers to collaborate with artists and a proponent of “comfort dressing” long before the term ever existed. But it was his understanding and appreciation of technology and how it could be harnessed to an aesthetic point of view to create new, seductive utilities that set Mr. Miyake apart.

Before there were wearables, before there were connected jackets, before there were 3-D-printed sneakers and laser-cut lace, there was Mr. Miyake, pushing the boundaries of material innovation to bridge past and future. He was the original champion of fashion tech.

It began in 1988 with Mr. Miyake’s research into the heat press, and how it could be used to create garments that started as fabric two or three times larger than normal, which was then pressed between two sheets of paper and fed into an industrial machine that shaped it into knife-edge pleats, which in turn became garments that never wrinkled, fell flat or required any complicated fastenings. By 1994, those garments made up a line of their own known as Pleats Please (later spun into a men’s wear version, Homme Plissé): a re-engineering of the classic Grecian drapes of Mario Fortuny into something both practical and weirdly fun.

So it went: Next came an experiment involving a continuous piece of thread fed into an industrial knitting machine to create one piece of cloth with inbuilt seams that traced different garment shapes — which could in turn be cut out as desired by the wearer, thus eliminating manufacturing detritus. Known as A-POC (a piece of cloth), the collection was introduced in 1997, decades before “zero waste” became a clarion call of the responsible fashion movement.

And then there was 132 5, which Mr. Miyaki debuted in 2010 (after he had stepped back from his day-to-day responsibilities but remained involved with his brand). Inspired by the work of computer scientist Jun Mitani, it comprised flat-pack items in complex origami folds that popped open to create three-dimensional pieces on the body. The collection was developed in conjunction with Mr. Miyaki’s in-house research and development team, founded in 2007 and known as Reality Lab. (The name — not to be confused with Meta’s Reality Labs division, though arguably its forerunner — was later also used for a retail store in Tokyo.)

Pieces from all of these lines are now included in the collections of museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art, the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. They are extraordinary — soft sculptures that morph and move with the body — but what makes them singular is that they were conceived not just as beautiful things but as solutions to everyday needs (a Miyake basic value was the importance of “clothes for living”). And they functioned as such.

This is where the black turtleneck comes in. It was not by any means Mr. Miyake’s most interesting garment. It may even have been his most banal. But it embodies his founding principles and serves as the door through which anyone not particularly interested in fashion could walk to discover the Miyake universe. Mr. Jobs did just that.

Indeed, it is not incidental that Mr. Jobs’s own exposure to Mr. Miyake came through technology. Or so the late Apple founder, told Walter Isaacson, his biographer.

According to Mr. Isaacson’s book, “Steve Jobs,” Mr. Jobs was fascinated by the uniform jacket Mr. Miyake created for Sony workers in 1981. Made from ripstop nylon with no lapels, it included sleeves that could be unzipped to transform the jacket into a vest. Mr. Jobs liked it and what it stood for (corporate bonding) so much that he asked Mr. Miyake to make a similar style for Apple’s employees — though when he returned to Cupertino with the idea, he was “booed off the stage,” he told Mr. Isaacson.

Still, according to Mr. Isaacson’s book, the two men became friends, and Mr. Jobs would often visit Mr. Miyake, ultimately adopting a Miyake garment — the black mock turtleneck — as a key part of his own uniform. It was a garment that did away with an extraneous fold at the neck, that had the ease of a T-shirt and a sweatshirt but also the cool, minimal lines of a jacket.

Mr. Miyake made him “like a hundred of them,” Mr. Jobs, who wore them until his death in 2011, said in the book. (Mr. Isaacson wrote he saw them stacked in Mr. Jobs’s closet, and the book’s cover features a portrait of Mr. Jobs wearing, natch, a black mock turtleneck.)

Even more than his Levi’s 501s and New Balance shoes, the turtleneck became synonymous with Mr. Jobs’s particular blend of genius and his focus: the way he settled on a uniform to reduce the number of decisions he had to make in the mornings, the better to focus on his work. It was an approach to dress later adopted by adherents including Mark Zuckerberg and Barack Obama. Also his ability to blend soft-corner elegance and utility in not just his own style but the style of his products.

As Ryan Tate wrote in Gawker, the turtleneck “helped make him the world’s most recognizable C.E.O.” Troy Patterson of Bloomberg called it “the vestment of a secular monk.” It was so embedded in pop culture that Elizabeth Holmes of Theranos later adopted it when she was trying to convince the world of her own Jobs-like brilliance, even though Mr. Miyake’s brand retired the style in 2011, after Mr. Jobs’s death. (An updated version was reintroduced in 2017 as “The Semi-Dull T.”)

It didn’t matter. At that point, the whole ethos of the garment had been transformed. Before Mr. Jobs encountered Mr. Miyake, after all, the black turtleneck was largely the province of beatniks and Samuel Beckett, associated with clove cigarettes, downtown and poetry readings (also ninjas, cat burglars and anyone who wanted to blend into the night). Afterward, it meant paradigm shifts.

But it would not have without Mr. Miyake. Mr. Jobs was not the typical muse of fashion cliché. But even more than the architects and artists who have gravitated toward Miyake clothing, he has become the designer’s ambassador to history: a genuinely populist part of a legacy that helped shape not just the rarefied inner sanctum of design, but the essence of how we think about dress.

Yosemite fire grows as crews try to protect iconic giant sequoias | News

A wildfire threatening the biggest grove of big sequoias in Yosemite Nationwide Park greater than doubled in measurement in a day.

A wildfire threatening the biggest grove of big sequoias in Yosemite Nationwide Park greater than doubled in measurement in a day, and firefighters are working in tough terrain to guard the enduring timber and a small mountain city.

Campers and residents close to the blaze have been evacuated, however the remainder of the sprawling park in California remained open, although heavy smoke obscured scenic vistas and created unhealthy air high quality on Sunday.

“Immediately it’s really the smokiest that we’ve seen,” Nancy Phillipe, a Yosemite fireplace info spokesperson, stated on Sunday.

“Up till this morning, the park has not been in that unhealthy class, however that’s the place we are actually.”

Greater than 500 mature sequoias have been threatened within the famed Mariposa Grove however there have been no studies of extreme harm to any named timber, together with the three,000-year-old Grizzly Big.

A sprinkler system arrange throughout the grove saved the tree trunks moist and officers have been hopeful that the regular spray of water together with earlier prescribed burns can be sufficient to maintain flames at bay, Phillipe stated.

The reason for the Washburn Fireplace was underneath investigation. It had grown to almost 6.5sq km (2.5sq miles) by Sunday morning, with no containment.

Past the timber, the group of Wawona, which is surrounded by parkland, was underneath menace, with folks ordered to depart late on Friday. Along with residents, about 600 to 700 campers who have been staying on the Wawona campground in tents, cabins and a historic resort have been ordered to depart.

A firefighter protects a sequoia tree as the Washburn Fire burns in Mariposa Grove in Yosemite National Park
A firefighter protects a sequoia tree because the Washburn Fireplace burns in Mariposa Grove in Yosemite Nationwide Park, California, US [Noah Berger/AP Photo]

The enormous sequoias, native in solely about 70 groves unfold alongside the western slope of California’s Sierra Nevada vary, have been as soon as thought-about impervious to flames.

However they’ve develop into more and more susceptible as wildfires – fuelled by a buildup of undergrowth from a century of fireside suppression and drought exacerbated by local weather change – have develop into extra intense and harmful.

Phillipe, the park spokesperson, beforehand stated a number of the large trunks had been wrapped in fire-resistant foil for cover, however she corrected herself on Sunday and stated that was not the case for this fireplace. Nonetheless, crews have wrapped a historic cabin within the protecting foil, she stated.

Lightning-sparked wildfires previously two years have killed as much as a fifth of the estimated 75,000 big sequoias, that are the most important timber by quantity and a significant draw for vacationers to the nationwide park.

To date in 2022, greater than 35,000 wildfires have burned almost 1.9 million hectares (4.7 million acres) in the USA, in keeping with the Nationwide Interagency Fireplace Middle, properly above common for each wildfires and space burned.

How to Change These Default Settings and Be Happier With Your Tech

Many default settings buried deep inside our technology make us share superfluous amounts of data with tech companies. In my last column, I went over how to shut those off.

But not all default settings do sneaky things with our information. There are also some that need to be activated or disabled to make our devices more enjoyable to use.

Newer iPhones, for one, come with a fancy camera that can shoot extremely clear videos in ultrahigh “4K” resolution — but most people probably aren’t using their cameras to their full potential because, by default, the phone is set to shoot videos at a lower resolution.

TVs are another example. Many modern televisions come with an effect known as motion smoothing turned on to make videos look as if they are playing at a higher frame rate, which is supposed to make fast-motion scenes look more detailed. But in many applications, especially when you’re watching movies, it creates a soap-opera effect that many find looks fake. It’s the setting on a TV that many tech-inclined people switch off immediately.

Our consumer electronics are among our most expensive household purchases, so it’s worthwhile to peruse and change the default settings to reap their maximum benefits. Here’s what I and other tech writers always change to make our phones, computers and televisions work better.

Apple’s iPhones include various settings that are turned off by default and must be activated to make the device more convenient to use and to take better photos.

  • Unlock an iPhone while wearing a mask. Though mask mandates have been lifted in many places, plenty of people still wear them to feel safe, especially indoors. One of the biggest drags to using an iPhone was having to punch in a passcode, rather than use facial identification, when wearing a mask. Recent versions of Apple’s iOS now let iPhone users unlock the device without removing their mask. Go to Settings → Face ID & Passcode → Face ID with a Mask and toggle this setting on (green).

  • Shoot 4K video. To make an iPhone camera shoot video at its highest resolution, go to Settings → Camera → Record Video and choose a 4K option. (I prefer “4K at 30 fps” because it works well when uploading videos to social media apps and internet sites like YouTube.) The downside is that 4K recordings will clog more of the phone’s digital storage. But if you paid for that fancy camera, why not put it to use?‌

  • Activate the camera grid. In digital photography, photographers use various composition techniques to make photos more aesthetically pleasing. The iPhone camera has a setting to show a grid to help compose shots. Go to Settings → Camera → Grid and toggle this setting on.

Android phones also include controls that have to be activated or modified to make the screen look better and the phone easier to use.

  • Change the display’s color profile. Many Android phones come with big, bright screens, but their colors may look oversaturated or too blue. Ryne Hager, an editor at the tech blog Android Police, said he typically switched out the default color profile whenever he set up a new Android phone. Instructions vary from phone to phone. For Samsung phones, go to Settings → Display → Screen mode Natural. For Pixel phones, go to Settings → Display → Colors → Natural.

  • Modify the shortcuts. On Android phones, you can customize the “quick settings” menu for shortcuts to features that you use often. Swipe down from the top of the smartphone screen, and swipe down again. If you tap the icon that looks like a pencil, you can choose to add tiles that let you, for example, activate hotspotting to share the phone’s cellular connection with a computer.

  • Activate the camera grid. Similar to iPhones, some Android phones can also show a grid to make photo composition easier. On Pixel phones, open the camera app, swipe down from the top of the screen, tap the gear icon and then go to Grid type → 3×3.

On Macs, where Apple users tend to do work, it’s useful to adjust settings to eliminate distractions and make tasks quicker. That involves switching off some features that were on by default and turning on some hidden features.

  • Activate a shortcut to show the desktop. Shrinking and moving around windows just to find a file on the desktop can be tedious. The first thing I do with any Mac is activate a shortcut that immediately hides all windows to show the desktop. Go to System Preferences → Mission Control → Show Desktop and choose a keyboard key to trigger the shortcut. (I use the fn key on my MacBook keyboard.)

  • Turn off notifications for distracting apps like Messages. In an era of never-ending video calls, you definitely don’t want text messages bombarding your screen and making sounds when you’re in a meeting. Just switch those notifications off permanently. Go to System Preferences → Notifications & Focus → Messages → Allow Notifications and toggle the setting to off (gray). In this menu, turn off notifications for any other noisy apps.

  • Add the Bluetooth icon to the menu bar. Most of us use Bluetooth accessories like wireless earphones and mice, so to make it easier to connect and disconnect these devices on a Mac, it helps to have quick access to the Bluetooth menu. Go to System Preferences → Bluetooth → Show Bluetooth in menu bar and check the box. This will show the Bluetooth icon in the upper-right portion of the screen, where you can quickly connect and disconnect earbuds and other wireless accessories.

Like Macs, Windows computers, by default, blast us with lots of notifications, but most frustrating are the many bleeps and bloops that go off when something goes wrong. Kimber Streams, a Wirecutter editor who tests laptops, shuts all these annoyances off.

  • Turn off notifications. Go to Settings → System → Notifications. Uncheck all the boxes and toggle off all the switches to disable all notifications.

  • Turn off system sounds. Go to Settings → System → Sound → More Sound Settings → Sounds → Sound Scheme: No sounds, and then hit Apply.

Virtually every TV comes with default settings that are far from ideal for showing the best picture.

With any TV, it’s worthwhile to adjust colors, brightness and contrast to suit your space. There’s no universal set of steps because the best settings will differ for every TV and living room. But there are helpful TV calibration tools to make this simple, including my go-to tool, Disney’s World of Wonder, a Blu-ray Disc with instructional videos on adjusting your TV settings.

By far the most important step on any TV, though, is to turn off the hideous motion smoothing effect. Steps vary across TVs, so do a web search on disabling it for your model. On my LG TV, I went to All Settings → Pictures → Picture Mode Settings → Picture Options → TruMotion → Off.

Trump refuses to answer questions in NY probe into his company | Donald Trump News

Ex-president insists he did ‘nothing wrong’ but says he invoked Fifth Amendment because he had ‘absolutely no choice’.

Former US President Donald Trump has said that he refused to answer questions under oath during an appearance before the New York state attorney general in an investigation into his business dealings.

Trump had appeared at state Attorney General Letitia James’s offices on Wednesday morning to testify in a long-running civil probe of the Trump Organization’s finances.

“I declined to answer the questions under the rights and privileges afforded to every citizen under the United States Constitution,” Trump said in a statement.

The Fifth Amendment of the US Constitution grants the right to remain silent when questioned by authorities to protect against self-incrimination.

Trump’s deposition in New York came less than two days after FBI agents searched his home in Florida as part of a separate investigation looking into possible mishandling of classified documents by the former president, according to several US media outlets.

The New York attorney general launched the civil investigation in 2019 after Trump’s former personal lawyer Michael Cohen testified in Congress that the ex-president exaggerated his assets “when it served his purposes”.

James has said in court filings that her office has uncovered “significant” evidence that Trump’s company “used fraudulent or misleading asset valuations to obtain a host of economic benefits, including loans, insurance coverage, and tax deductions.”

Trump, who previously suggested that he will run for president again in 2024, has dismissed the New York inquiry, federal probe and the congressional committee investigating the January 6, 2021, attack on the Capitol by his supporters as politically motivated.

On Wednesday, he reiterated that he did “nothing wrong”, stressing – without evidence – that federal authorities, state prosecutors and what he called the “fake news media” are targeting him with unfounded accusations.

“If there was any question in my mind, the raid of my home, Mar-a-Lago, on Monday by the FBI, just two days prior to this deposition, wiped out any uncertainty,” Trump said.

“I have absolutely no choice because the current administration and many prosecutors in this Country have lost all moral and ethical bounds of decency.”

Many Republicans have blamed President Joe Biden for the FBI search, but the White House has insisted that it does not interfere in Department of Justice-led investigations.

Trump singled out New York’s James with his criticism on Wednesday, calling her a “failed politician” and accusing her of pursuing a “vendetta” against him.

Trump was impeached twice as president, including in early 2021 for inciting a riot at the US Capitol as legislators were certifying Biden’s election victory, but he was acquitted by the Senate in votes along party lines.